The arrival of a Parisian-style bistro in Tsim Sha Tsui saw Gayatri Bhaumik heading straight for Star Ferry
Marmo Bistro champions classic French dishes
Rosewood Hong Kong is known for sought-after dining experiences that pair well- crafted dishes and discerning drinks with high-end aesthetics. Its latest offering, Marmo Bistro, doesn’t stray from this tried-and-true formula.
Helmed by Chef de Cuisine Giovanni Galeota, Marmo Bistro is an homage to classic Parisian bistros presented with Rosewood flair. It’s the first foray into French cuisine for the five-star hotel.
Hidden behind Rosewood’s Italian eatery, Bluhouse, arriving at Marmo Bistro feels like stepping into a hidden neighbourhood staple. Inside, the restaurant is rendered in marble, wood, leather, and velvet, creating an elevated tactile experience. For visual effect, there’s an open kitchen and a gallery wall of famous vintage-style French posters. The posters may seem trite, but they serve the purpose of adding a French touch.
The focus here is on simple, authentic cooking that uses the freshest ingredients in modern renderings of classic French dishes. For that reason, the menu is short, with just 18 dishes and five sides. To kick things off, the team presents a basket of freshly-baked bread and a trencher of charcuterie, pickles, and butter to whet the appetite while we browse the menu. And a glass of Domaine Vincent Pinard’s 2023 Sancerre from the curated wine list.
The meal begins with a trio of starters. The Sardines Fumées balance the salty smokiness of Spanish sardines with fresh tomato butter, while the Thon à la Niçoise, a modern Niçoise salad, bursts with fresh flavours by substituting fresh bluefin akami tuna for the usual tuna confit. The highlight, though, is the homemade Foie Gras Torchon, which is impossibly smooth and rich and pairs beautifully with the accompanying fig chutney, kampot pepper and toasted sourdough.
The Gratinée à l’Ognion – an elevated French onion soup – is equally impressive. The beef broth, filled with chunks of bread and onion, is surprisingly light and well-balanced, while the topping – a combination of Gruyère and Comté cheese – adds an indulgent touch without being overpowering.
The mains are purposefully simple and feel pleasantly wholesome. Both the Sole Meunière and Côte Ibérique (roasted pork chops) are served lightly cooked and with a butter “Noisette” for the fish and honey mustard sauce for the pork. Surprisingly, it’s the sides that up the ante. The Carrottes Vichy (butter-glazed carrots) and Pommes Allumettes (double-fried matchstick fries) are perfectly cooked and utterly delicious.
As the meal ends, we’re treated to some dinner theatre. A waiter wearing a well- pressed suit wheels an elegant trolly tableside to present Marmo Bistro’s Tarte Tropezienne. Inspired by the creation that actress Brigitte Bardot fell in love with in 1950s St Tropez, this dessert features two layers of lighter than-air brioche rounds sandwiching a thick layer of Diplomat cream (pastry custard) infused with orange blossom and served with a side of berry compote for sweetness. The portion is intimidatingly huge but goes down easily.
With Marmo Bistro, Rosewood Hong Kong has created a sophisticated yet approachable spin on the Parisian bistro that’s sure to have diners coming back for more.
Asia Family Traveller dined as a guest of Marmo Bistro.
Marmo Bistro, Wednesday to Sunday, 6 to 10.30pm; Ground Floor, Rosewood Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong; +852 3891 8732