Roganic revisited - review

Hong Kong’s favourite farm-to-table dining spot has finally reopened after a stunning redesign. Gayatri Bhaumik headed to Causeway Bay for a tasting

Roganic review - the interior is designed using upcycled wood from trees felled by Hong Kong typhoons

Michelin-starred Roganic quickly became a darling of the Hong Kong dining scene when it opened in February 2019, bringing British chef Simon Rogan’s innovative farm-to-table cuisine to the city. Now, the award-winning restaurant is gearing up to set Hong Kong abuzz once again with a brilliantly reimagined concept at Lee Gardens One in Causeway Bay.

The delightful experience begins as soon as diners step into the restaurant, which features a sustainable design concept masterminded by award-winning local studio Atelier E. 

Inspired by the restaurant’s reduce, reuse, recycle ethos, Roganic’s interiors are crafted with locally sourced and sustainable materials – think upcycled wood from trees salvaged from typhoons and urban development, artwork on the minimalist bar counter by local artist Eunis Cheng that features recycled stone and oyster shells and flooring made from broken and reshaped marble pieces. With copious use of wood and the occasional plant-like feature, it feels like a very stylish Hobbiton.

Roganic review - Chef Simon Rogan (second from right) and his team

Seated in front of the open kitchen we have a clear view of the team, led by chefs Adam Catterall and Mark Catchpole, as they execute a perfectly choreographed kitchen ballet to deliver a well-curated sharing menu. Moving away from traditional degustation-style menus, the new Roganic offers guests a more social dining experience as they share each dish and select from a choice of mains.

Kicking things off at dinner is a trio of innovative starters that combine unexpected ingredients for the most flavourful bites. There’s a touch of freshness in the cured Spanish mackerel from Hainan with beetroot, hawthorn, and dill; a palate-pleasing richness from the Maitake mushroom mousse that features Wagyu ox tongue, pickled shimeji, and ramson oil; and a delicate meatiness in the prawn cracker served with an emulsion of prawn heads.

Between four diners, we shared four mains and while each is a culinary masterpiece, it was the Maitake mushroom with miso butter, grains, three yellow soft yolks, and burnt chives that had everyone going back for seconds. The dish is almost risotto-like in its creaminess, has a rich umami flavour from the mushroom, and a perfect juxtaposition of texture thanks to the grains. It’s worth a trip to Roganic just for this dish itself. 

Roganic review - Maitake mushroom with miso butter, grains and soft yellow yolks is a must-try

Still, the dry-aged Guangdong Duck with 100 flower honey and braised leg with pickle walnut was a perfectly modern interpretation of east meets west, while the A5 Wagyu sirloin with Tokyo turnips, young leaves, whipped potatoes and bone marrow would satisfy even the pickiest of meat eaters.

Even the drinks programme at the new Roganic has been designed in line with its sustainable ethos and is as carefully considered as the menu. Drink pairings are available in alcoholic, non-alcoholic or mixed sets, creating a nice point of distinction from many other fine-dining restaurants in the city. I opted for the mixed pairing and was pleasantly surprised at the creativity that had gone into making the zero-proof drinks. There was a coconut-forward concoction enhanced with fermented marigold stems and honey (the marigold comes from kitchen scraps), and a rather robust Hojicha kombucha with beetroot and cherry that offered a pleasant counterpoint to the meat dishes. 

For the wines, there is a unique Loire Valley Pinot Gris 2022 ‘Maceration’ from Jerome Bretaudeau to match the rich mushroom dish, and then an approachable 2019 Valpolicella Classico Superiore from Zyme in Italy’s Veneto region whose cherry and plum notes enhanced the duck and beef.

It’s not often in Hong Kong that I’m keen to immediately revisit a restaurant, but the creative, well-executed dishes, strong wine pairings – and attentive service – have me planning my next meal at Roganic as I walk out the door.

Roganic, Shops 402 & 403, 4/F, Lee Garden One, 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong; +852 2817 8383.