Gallic dining is taking Hong Kong by storm with myriad new openings over recent months. Gayatri Bhaumik headed to SoHo for a fun night of classic cocktails and delicious dishes
French flair - vols au vent and moules up for review at Lala Hong Kong
A number of French restaurants have opened in Hong Kong recently, but it’s Lala - the new addition to Lyndhurst Terrace – that’s nailed the chic Parisienne brasserie vibe. The brainchild of Franckelie Laloum and Hong Kong hospitality veteran Michael Larkin, Lala delivers a meticulously crafted experience through a welcoming ambience, classic French dishes with a twist and a great bar programme.
The experience begins at the restaurant’s entrance, where guests walk past a bijou terrace inspired by the sidewalk cafes of Paris and through double glass doors into Lala’s cosy bar area. This is the perfect way to begin a night here – grab one of the low tables or pull up a bar seat and watch the team shake up exquisite renditions of classic cocktails like Martinis and Old Fashioneds (they’ll also whip up thoughtful wine options that pair beautifully with the meal).
The dining room features colourful murals by artist Elsa Jeandediu – famous for collaborations with the likes of Louis Vuitton and, in Hong Kong, The Aubrey - that very much put me in mind of Matisse’s works. These are broken up, surprisingly, by rich blue velvet curtains; it must be assumed that these are windows that have been hidden to retain the intimate atmosphere. The furnishings here are kept in
simple, earthy tones of whites, creams, and olives to offset the artwork – you’ll want to ask for a booth. Two open kitchens, one for pastries, the other for entrées and mains, add a little entertainment factor, but it’s the nostalgic soundtrack of 70s and 80s pop that becomes a talking point.
In creating Lala’s menu, Laloum incorporates quality ingredients to classic French bistro dishes and, drawing on his years in the region, gives them light Asian twists. We kick things off with a delightful selection from the entrée section. The Seriole (citrus marinated Hamachi with chilli oil) is light and pops with flavour; the Tartare de Boeuf, presented in a brioche bun and topped with miso mustard, comes off like an elevated lobster roll; while the Langoustine is cooked to perfection.
What comes next though, is by far the absolute highlight of the evening. The Vol au Vent “Lala” is a masterpiece of perfectly crisp pastry, exquisitely cooked sweetbread, and well-textured morel and seasonal mushrooms, all swimming in a thick, rich gravy. Our palates are already in high heaven by the time the much-touted Poulet Jaune (roasted Yellow chicken presented on a bed of braised Japanese Koshihikari rice) arrives, so while the dish is well executed, we’re still talking about the sweetbread Vol au Vent.
To finish, we’re treated to the Patisserie, a curation of homemade pastries by ex- Louise dessert chef Natalie Leung. Her expertise shines through the four desserts, though it’s the brilliant Paris Brest with its decadent praline cream and choux pastry that I’d come back for (and I don’t have a sweet tooth).
Strolling home after a long but enjoyable evening, I realise it’s been awhile since I’ve really enjoyed a new restaurant in Hong Kong. At Lala, the friendly team, relaxed yet fun atmosphere, and great food come together to create a great casual night out.
Lala, G/F, 29 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, Hong Kong; +852 5200 3915.
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